Combining Warsaw’s commercial reality with its artistic spirit, Dobra Street pervades a buzzing bohemian
vibe that makes for a perfect place to hang-out and meet the locals.

by Anna J. Kutor

While the life and soul of most European capitals lie
in their bustling riverside promenades that boast a string of bustling
restaurants, café, stores and recreational facilities, Warsaw’s
Vistula River is famed for its wild and
unregulated riverbanks that only offer entertainment for environmentalist and
adventurous adolescents. But what the city lacks in direct waterway activity,
it more then makes up for in its neighboring streets and districts – like on
Dobra, a street long and straight in geography, but certainly not straight in
scenery. Stretching between Średnicowy and Śląsko-Dąbrowski bridges on the
eastern side of the river parallel to the four-lane Wisłostrada, Dobra (literally meaning good) is eclectic
epicenter of the capital’s Powiśle
precinct that offers diverse opportunities for cultural and social activities.

Coffee and
Culture

A great place to jump start the day for
breakfast, coffee and book browsing sessions is Czuły Barbarzyńca (The
Gentle Barbarian), the capital’s first café-bookstore named after Czech author Bohumil Hrabal’s novel of the same name. A red
neon sign on the corner of Dobra and Zajęcza streets marks the location of the
Barbarian. Founded by art
aficionado Tomasz Brzozowski in 2002, the store has carved itself a place in
the hearts of caffeine and culture devotees, standing as a composite cultural
institution that combines a cozy coffeehouse with a book publishing house. Books
on sale are mostly in Polish, but foreign visitors will also find a good
selection of titles in English and a few other languages, as well as a range of
books and albums about contemporary art and design. Beyond books, the literary
watering hole also hosts a large selection of cultural programs from movie
screenings, literary discussion and theater  productions to art expositions and
fun events for children. The latest exhibit (up until April 16) shows the prized
works of a design competition focusing on new-age souvenirs from Warsaw. Objects on
display include Maja Kaczyńska’s colorful squishy toys shaped in the form of
the Palace of Culture
and Science, stickers with various tourist attractions and a body warming
sleeping-suit resembling Warsaw’s
Mermaid-Syrenka designed by Marcela Kawka.

Literature
lovers will also enjoy Arkady Bookstore just across the street from the
Barbarian (on Dobra 28), that stocks a wall-to-wall collection of books on
Poland covering everything from the architecture and culture to science and
economics in addition to sections on philosophy, history, literature and art.
If you still have problems finding an ideal book, the bookshops in the
University Library down the street will surely answer your needs – but more on
that later.

From
this location, take a stroll down Zajęcza
street to see the streamline steel suspension
structure of Świętokrzyski Bridge,
the city’s youngest bridge crossing the Vistula
that was completed in 2000. One of six car-traffic bridges and the first
cable-stayed construction yoking the two parts of Warsaw, the structure carries a 90 meter high
concrete pylon with 88 connecting cables. More then just an architectural work
of art, Świętokrzyski Bridge is one of the most
photogenic places to take some stunning shots of the city’s developing skyline.

Learning and Leisure Center

The
turquoise-tainted Warsaw University Library building on Dobra 56/66– erected in
1999 – is a stand-out, singular institution containing a number of sites worth
exploring. Designed by architects Marek Budzyñski and Zbigniew
Badowski, the building exudes an environmentally-friendly aura and beautifully
balances student-friendly locales with upmarket office spaces. Besides the
university facilities – that include a vast library as well as teaching,
reading and computer rooms -, the building houses several bookstores,
advertisement and employment agencies, a Spanish and French language school,
the Café Team Bar, as well as the Hula Kula bowling center. Also on the
premises, the upscale Italian winery-cum-restaurant Biblioteka (Library)
features a menu with smart, creative and well-articulated flavors that pair
well with their extensive grape nectar offerings hailing from various wine
regions.

In
the face of all in-house facilities, the Library’s main attraction is the roof-top garden terrace, a two-leveled
green landscape that was opened in 2002. A scenic meeting point and chill-out
area, the garden features grassy spaces, benches, interrelated footpaths, a
fish pond, a small labyrinth section with trees and flowers and even a water
cascade. The gardens are open from April 1 to late September from 9 am to 8 pm
and the entrance is free of charge. 

Another must-see element of the
Library include the eight massive copper plates on the façade of the building
(facing Dobra street) that depict writings from ancient Arabic and Indian
classics, a Russian chronicle, mathematical and chemistry formulas and a sheet
music segment by Karol Szymanowski. The four concrete sculptures created by
Adam Myjak showcasing Polish philosophers in the entrance of the library, the
bronze bust of Indian spiritual leader Mahatma Gandhi – sculpted by Guatam Pal,
and the three pink illuminated deer statues standing in the park behind the
building are all sights worth seeing.

Hungary has illustrious features and inventions in spades,
but the country’s most outstanding achievements and treasures are now protected
under the term Hungaricums. Below, we highlight the matchless flavours and
culinary products that display the pure essence of Hungary.   

by Anna J. Kutor

Hungarians, as many European cultures, are fiercely
protective and proud of their unique material, intellectual and natural
treasures and inventions. In order to shield and preserve a set of uniquely
Hungarian products on a local and international scale , The Hungaricum Act was
established in 2012 and has brought together such quintessentially local
products such as Herend porcelain, Matyo folk art and Hungarian grey cattle and
mangalica. Some of the most noteworthy and prominent assets of Hungary,
however, are to be found in its gastronomy, so here we shine the spotlight on  Hungaricums that showcase the country’s peak performance in terms of food and wine. The complete list of Hungaricums is
available here.

Paprika

As György Láng, the Hungarian restaurateur famous for
breathing new life into the renowned Gundel restaurant, wrote in his Cuisine of
Hungary: “Paprika is to the Hungarian cuisine as wit is to its
conversation - not just a superficial garnish, but an integral element…the
marriage of paprika and Hungarian cooking was almost predestined.” Though
not native, Hungary’s spicy, red obsession grew from the 16th century (when
either Turks or neighboring ethnic groups from the Balkans introduced it on
local soil) and is now so omnipresent that a big portion of the domestic
culinary lexicon includes a hearty dose of paprika. The towns of Kalocsa and
Szeged, both in the southern part of the Great Plain, vie for the title of
“Paprika Capital”, grow and produce various grades of the iconic
product. Besides these two paprika heavyweights, the town of Szentes also
produces their own unique version that has elevated it into the Hungaricum
inventory.

In the Hungarian kitchen, flavor, color and aroma are equally important, which is
why there’s a clear distinction between the four official categorizations of
Hungarian paprika: különleges
(or “special quality” a mild and vibrant red version made from only
flawless, ripe peppers), csemege (“delicate”, with a strong paprika
flavor and a lighter yellow-red hue), édesnemes (“noble sweet”, a
lighter but more pungent paprika) and rózsa (an aromatic, dark red paprika
which tends to be strong). But taste is the real deal-breaker - sweet, vegetal
or more earthy, but far from bitter.

Gulyás

This renowned and beloved soup is one of the most readily identifiable symbols of Hungarian cuisine, and deservedly so, as this national dish typifies many local flavors. It is sold at every
restaurant, every festival, and even at the airport, but the most delicious and
authentic gulyás is made on hot summer days in massive iron cauldron’s of homes
throughout the country. György Láng, in his book on Hungarian cuisine,
traces the origins of the dish to the 9th century when it was simple,
meat-heavy soup prepared by the nomad herdsmen (known as ‘gulyás’). He states that to make the most authentic gulyás, on must “never use any flour. Never use
any other spice besides caraway. Never Frenchify it with wine. Never Germanize
it with brown sauce. Never put in any other garniture besides diced potatoes or
galuska (a small pasta-like
dumpling).” Today, this hearty,
one-pot meal is made primarily of beef, potatoes, carrots and onions that are
spiked with a solid dose of red paprika, bringing to each bite a rich brown
color and a sweet, pungent flavor.

Salami - Pick & Herz   

Produced in Szeged, a town two hours south of Budapest,
Pick Salami is a meaty delicacy has been regarded as the heart of Hungarian
cuisine since its creation in 1869. It was founded by Marc Pick, a product
trader of Moravian Jewish origin, who set out to create an exceptional pork
product from his bountiful agrarian homeland that would rival the quality and
taste of the preferred Italian salamis of the time. Pick’s téli szalámi (winter
salami, named so for the colder months when it was traditionally produced) is
distinguished by its special combination of spices, wide girth, and the
protective “noble mold” that coats the sausage during its three-month
maturing period after it has been smoked. Rivaling Pick in its popularity and
prevalence is Herz Salami, which was originally produced by the Herz company
along the Danube banks in Budapest, but is under the ownership of Pick since
2013. Herz exudes the typical rich flavor and denseness of winter salami, but it
is a bit milder and more smooth than its Pick counterpart.

Szamos Marzipan

A family-run marzipan and chocolate manufacturing company,
Szamos epitomizes the nation’s devotion to craft and quality. Mátyás Szamos, a poor Serbian-born boy who grew up in Szentendre and started honing his marzipan rose making craft as an apprentace
confectioner in 1930s, launched his sweet empire from a small apartment in
Budapest. Today, the company boasts a factory in Pilisvörösvar employing over
250 people, 6 confectionaries and 16 stories throughout Hungary, a special
marzipan museum in Szentendre and the Szamos Gourmet House in the Vörösmarty
Sqaure that is a confectionary, cafe and chocolate factory all rolled into one
elegant palace that is decorate with Herendi porcelain products (another
Hungaricum). All carry the classic Szamos specialities of chocolate-covered marzipans,
handmade truffles, bonbons and cakes, made from top-notch ingredients such as
cocoa butter and premium almond paste.

Tokaj wine

Labelled the “king of wines, the wine of kings” by Louis XV of France, Hungary’s Tokaji wine has
been celebrate the world over for centuries. The entire historical wine region
of Tokaj-Hegyalja in the northeastern corner of the country falls under the
Hungaricum label, but it’s really the sweet wines produced in the area that
have made the area famous. Honey-gold, silky sweet aszú is the most iconic of
the bunch, made from grapes affected by so-called noble rot that shrivels the
grapes to a raisin-like state. Six grape varieties, all white, are premitted
for Tokaji production, but 90 percent of the region vineyard’s are planted with
Furmint and Hárslevelű. Besides aszú, look for other stand-out wines such as
single-varietal Furmints, Szamorodni and the rarest-of-the-rare Tokaji
Eszencia.

Túró Rudi

Wrapped in its trademark red polka-dotted wrapper, turo
rudi is a chocolate-covered cylinder of curd cottage cheese that has a strong hold
on Hungarian hearts. This indigenous and ingenious little snack was introduced
in 1968 after a decade of experimentation and its popularity grew by leaps and
bounds thanks to early viral marketing efforts (aka word of mouth), as well as
its irresistible taste. Beyond the classic bar, they now come in different
varieties with a small line of flavorings such as walnut, apricot, raspberry,
cherry or caramel running through the center.

Unicum

Another potent national drink that is stashed away in every
liqueur cabinet in Hungary, Unicum is a beloved bittersweet digestive made from
40 herbs and spices. According to family lore, in the late 1700s, the Royal
Physician to the Habsburg Court, Dr. József Zwack was ask to concoct a
medicinal liqueur for the ailing emperor, Joseph II. Voicing his pleasure he
reportedly said, “Dr Zwack, Das ist ein unicum!”(literally
translating to “This is unique”). Thus became Unicum the trademark
product of Zwack, Hungary’s best-known spirit maker that still operates under
the family’s hand in Budapest. The company now has a portfolio of over 200
liqueurs and brandies, but the chocolate-hued Unicum still shines as its
flagship, with its memorable bomb-shaped bottle, emergency-cross logo, and
truly unforgettable taste.

The culinary component of the Hungaricum collection show
off the best of what the Hungary has to offer - craftsmanship, singularly
engaging flavors and a time-honored heritage.

Acacia Honey

With acacia making up some one third of Hungary’s tree
stock, it’s no wonder that bees keep buzzing there direction , producing nearly
half of the domestic honey supply. Akacia honey, as a single-varietal honey
that is made from the nectar of a single flower variety is a distinctly pale in
color, has a delicately sweet flavor that is rich in fructose, hence its long
shelf life. It’s perfect for stirring into tea, spreading on thickly buttered
slices of bread or used as cooking ingredients as it mixes easily with liquids
and batters.

Baja Fisherman’s Soup

In Hungary’s arsenal of traditional soups, fisherman’s soup plays a substancial, yet secondary
supporting role to that of gulyás,
the most well-known of local soups. Born out of the prominent fishing
traditions along the Danube, Tisza rivers and Lake Balaton, this piquant dish
is prepared in a multitude of ways, but it’s most notable and unique version is
made in Baja, situated in the Southern Great Plains of Hungary. The Baja style
fisherman’s soup is made in a large iron cauldron using mainly carp - any
additional fish types are only used to intensify the taste -, onions and
high-quality paprika powder, as well as the defining ingredients of thin,
delicate pasta and the spicy cheery paprika.

Csabai Kolbász (Sausage from Csaba)

Kolbász is to Hungary what bratwurst is to Germany - part
sustenance, part palate adventure, part cultural identity. Whether it’s a
regular weekday or Christmas morning, this kitchen staple makes an appearance
at the breakfast and dinner table, in soups and scrambled eggs, and is also a
key ingredient in many complex warm dishes. Hungarian kolbász can be fatty, dry
or slightly dry, smoked, hard or soft, natural or with some chemical additives
and various degrees of spiciness. The most famous brands of kolbász are Gyulai
and Csabai - made respectively in the regions of Gyula and Békéscsaba - from
long-standing traditions that are still upheld today. A naturally smoked and
dry cured sausage, Csabai kolbász is unique in its sizable girth and piquant,
intensely paprika-fueled flavor. It was raised into the ranks of the elite
Hungaricum club in 2013 and is being manufactured by over 180 producers in
Békéscsaba.

Goose Liver Products

Goose liver, or more commonly known by its French moniker foie gras, is an indulgent treat in much
of the world, but in Hungary, it’s a fixture of the gastronomic domain that is
abundantly consumed in pates, parfaits, terrines and mousses. Accounting for
some 80 of the world’s production, Hungary produces over 2000 tons of
non-fattened goose liver, of which the vast majority (up to 85%) is exported,
mostly to France. At its best, goose liver has a lot of flavor and personality
so there’s no need for additional spices or add-ons when grilled, seared or
roasted. Hungarians tend to prefer simple variations of goose liver, served in
thick slices so the smooth and slightly sweet taste melts in the mouth. There
are piles of fresh, creamy-white goose livers at every butcher shop in
Budapest, where there’s a chose between non-fattened and fatted livers, but
supermarkets also stock frozen versions.

Fröccs (Spritzer)

The ultimate summertime drink that fizzles and refreshes, fröccs is the marriage of white wine or rose
with soda water. It’s no coincidence that this thirst-quenching
cocktail made it’s mark on the Hungarian bar scene and psyche, given the
abundance of wine production and the invention of soda water by the brilliant
Hungarian inventor  Ányos Jedlik who was the first to create soda on an
industrial scale. The diminished quality of wine during Communist times gave
rise to the love of fröccs, but its popularity still persisted after the fall
of the Iron Curtain and you can still order a fröccs in practically every bar
and restaurant in Hungary. The preparation of this summertime classic has
developed into something of an art form with different proportions of wine and
soda or mineral water mixed to offer various degrees of strenght or weakness,
depending on the drinker’s personal preference.

Karcagi Bikapörkölt (Karcag Mutton Stew)

A rugged and mind-blowingly flavorsome dish, bikapörkölt (mutton stew) prepared in the
traditional Karcag style was the first recipe to be included in the Hungaricum
inventory. It is a centuries-old recipe prepared by the Cuman people residing
in Karcag and the surrounding region in east-central Hungary where sheep are
the primary source of meat in the diet of the common folk. Traditionally, the
stew is prepared in a massive cast-iron pot over an open fire in which the
entire animal is sautéed without the addition of liquid. Once the cubes of meat
and internal organs are browned over diced onions, locally-grown paprika powder
and hot green peppers, the mixture is cooked together with the knuckles, hoofs,
tail and the head, which is cracked in half for the brain inside to be
seasoned. Designed for adventurous eaters who don’t mind their food staring
them in the face, this will not only be your happy meal, but the meal that will
stick with you from your visit to Hungary.

Kürtöskalács

A marked example of street
food, kürtöskalács (chimney or funnel cake) is a spiral-shapped pastry that is
served in special kiosks and at every festival in Hungary. Following the
age-old Transylvanian recipe, a sweet cake dough is rolled onto a wooden pin
that is is baked in a special oven until golden. The crispy, hollow loaf is
then rolled into various toppings, from crushed nuts, cinnamon, and ground
walnuts to vanilla, coconut flakes, poppy seeds or cocoa powder.

Onions from Makó

Onions may be a lowly root crop, but their versatility and
ever-present quality in the Hungarian kitchen makes them an unsung star. The
southern edges of the Great Hungarian Plains, especially the city of Makó, have
been fertile ground for onions for several centuries. Over time, their
cultivation has led to a special type of onion typically consisting of a firm,
bone-white flesh and a strong ,spicy taste that can be stored through the
winter period. The unique qualities of Makói vöröshagyma or Makói onion have
thus ensured their place in the Hungaricum club since 2009, forming the
irreplaceable base of iconic local dishes such as gulyás, lecsó or onion soup.

Pálinka

Almost always served as a shot, pálinka is not only a national tipple but a liquid source of pride for
Hungarians. “Pálinkás Jóreggelt!” or pálinka sunrise is how rural
workers start the day, but this potent fruit brandy is served
with virtually every meal in rural households and is a part of traditional
family events, be it weddings, pig killings or funerals. Often referred to as
firewater,  the production of this type
of brandy is now strictly regulated and only drinks that are 100 percent fruit
distillates with a minimum alcohol content of 37.5 percent can be named pálinka.

Traditionally the most commonly used fruits to make this national tipple where plums, apples, pears, apricots, and cherries, but increasingly more unusual and lesser-known
varieties are fruits and flavor combinations have appeared on the market. There
are hundreds of types of pálinka producers throughout Hungary, but the best
distilleries are still Gyulai, Zwack, Brill Pálinkaház, Bestillo, Tarpai,
Bestillo, Agárdi, Márton és Lányai, Bakonyi, and Nobilis Pálinkafőzde. The
Hungaricum list contains appricot pálinka made in Kecskemét and Göncz, plum
pálinka made in Szatmár and Békés, apple pálinka made in Szabolcs, sour cheery pálinka  made in Újfehértó, pear pálinka made in Göcsej and marc brandy made in Pannonhalma.

Pozsonyi Kifli

Hungarians are spoilt fof choice when it comes to desserts and pastries, but from the arsenal of decadent
treats (think Dobos cake, Rigó Jancsi, grillázs, indiáner, Rákóczi túrós, somlói galuska, mignon), the one that stands out on the Hungaricum list is the pozsonyi kifli. Harking back to the days of
Turkish occupation in Hungary, this crescent-shaped pastry is filled with poppy
seed or walnuts and baked to golden-brown perfection. It takes its name from
the Hungarian name for the Slovakian capital of Bratislava, but its creation
saw the input of German and Austrian confections before it became a Christmas holiday
staple in Hungary.

Over the past two decades an outpouring of artistic excellence has propelled Dutch design to the vanguards of contemporary cool

by Anna J. Kutor

For many a Hungarian, a meal is not a meal without soup. And while the traditionally-important appetizer still kicks off a typical
Sunday, soups have also developed into filling, fully-nutritionally meals all
on their own, thanks to a new wave of in-and-out type soup bars. Here are the
best of the bunch.

by Anna J. Kutor

There once was a time, in the not-so-distant-past, when
soup was what you ordered during the wintertime chills to warm you up. It was
what you ordered for your out-of-town friend to show them the Hungarian
culinary must-try’s like gulyás and fisherman’s soup.
But now, soup has become fashionable and creative. Throughout Budapest, dedicated
soup bars and elevated soup stations have started popping up to serve the
city’s foodie crowd with ingredient-intensive and seasonally fresh blends.
After all, these new-age broths have all the elements that the always-busy
generation craves: nutritionally valuable, easy, fast meals at an
budget-friendly price. Here are the best soup players in Budapest that keep
stirring the pot.

LEVES.

1053 Budapest, Vámház
krt. 14, +36 30 241 7760

Turning soup from a simple nourishment into a hot new
liquid asset, this hole-in-the-wall spot has locals raving about their
palate-thrilling cup fillers. The two young owners, Ádám Gögge and Zoltán
Horváth, set up shop in 2010 in a tiny nook just off Kálvin tér with the intent
of serving regular, tightly-curated feast of soup options that follow the
seasons’ offerings. That concept, in line with the spot-on execution, is what
has made it a crowd-pleasure bar none. The weekly changing soup combinations
range from vegetable-rich broths such as mashed green peas with mint, Indian
lentil soup and baked garlic and potato soup to ethnic specialties such as
African peanut chicken soup to Thai coconut chicken soup. And then there’s the
summer specials that feature cold fruit soups from sour cherry to apple -
soothing and refreshing.

Bors GastroBar

1075 Budapest, Kazinczy utca 10

This Jewish district destination, a few doors down from the
always-busy Szimpla Kert, is perfectly located for those mid-sightseeing dining
breaks or after-party food cravings. The daily-changing menu of experimental
soups are packed with flavor, from the caramel-French mustard pheasant ragout
soup to the pumpkin-crème soup with basil-infused roasted chicken, as well as
paprika-potato soup with added sausage bits. The sweater renditions venture on
the wild side, including the elderflower peach soup with panna cotta inserts as
well as the Túró Rudi soup with Belgian chocolate, but they definitely keep
attracting adventurous eaters.

Fragola

1075 Budapest, Károly krt. 3., +36 20 467 2273

Soup and ice cream may seem like strange bedfellows, until you’ve tried it at
Fragola. The creative masterminds behind this city-wide chain have crafted a
weekly-changing repertoire of seasonal tastes that playfully fuse hot with
cold. Just think tandoori chicken soup with banana-strawberry ice cream;
chickpea and mushroom crème soup with basil-lemon ice cream or eggplant crème
soup with coconut ice cream. For the soup alone there’s a variety of toppings
to add on, including dried onions, various nuts, chilli paprika and coconut
shavings.

Finomító Kantin

1027 Budapest, Varsányi Irén utca 33, +36 30 871 9588

Soup lovers with find their spoon full on the Buda side as well if they visit this hipster
outpost near Szél Kálmán tér. Dreamt up by a lawyer couple and one their
stylist sisters, Finomító Kantin has built a strong following mainly for their
juicy burgers, but the menu also has a host of staple soups, such as gazpacho
with coriander  and spinach-potato crème
soup with grated eggs, alongside some ethnic specialties. The selection is
influenced by the season’s bounty and changes weekly, but come rain or shine
guests will find a creamy and hearty option just fine.