A Toast to Tallinn
March 1, 2017
Medieval meets modern in Tallinn, a Baltic pearl of worldwide acclaim. Named as European
Capital of Culture in 2011, there’s no better time to unpack the passport and
head to the north.
by Anna J. Kutor
Coiled up in the north of mainland Europe
along the broad blue tablecloth of the Baltic Sea, Tallinn has some serious
mojo up its sleeve. The Estonian capital is bursting with style, atmosphere,
gorgeous people, gourmet dining and imbibing locales and culture by the bucket
loads. It has a real tech-savvy edge over its neighboring Baltic sisters,
evidenced by the sleek Skype HQ and zippy Wi-Fi bathing the entire city. But
above all, the most alluring aspect of Tallinn, as cliche as it might sound, is
the harmonic fusion between its fairy-tale charm and future-forward focus.
A small preview of the city’s old-meets-new character is presented upon arrival, whether you sidle up to the
city by land or sea. Direct downtown, the landward route from the airport takes
less than 15 minutes through roads flanked by rows of 20th-century apartment
buildings and sleekly-designed structures before descending into the thick
medieval walls of the Old Town. Approaching from the coastal side, via a
100-minute ferry crossing from Helsinki, the skyline that untangles itself from
the horizon is punctuated by industrial chimneys and cranes, shifting into a
cluster of centuries-old spires and steeples as the ship pulls closer.
The first port of call for all culture vultures is the beautifully preserved two-tiered medieval heart of the city, a
Unesco World Heritage Since since 1997. Enter from the south-east through the
ivy-covered archway of Viru Gates, shuffle up the street and emerge onto
Raekoja Plats, the Town Hall Square. This cobbled expanse, polished to a high
gloss by passage of untold numbers of feet, is anchored by the Gothic city hall
and ringed by candy-hued tenements housing high-style dining venues. Life
just fizzes with activity: people are eating and drinking, playing music,
selling hand-made trinkets from stalls and buying remedies at Raeapteek,
claimed to be the oldest running pharmacy in the world dating back to 1422.
Seeing such youthful verve against such a solid, monumental background, it’s
hard not to feel a bit intoxicated.
Watching over the tangle of cobblestone streets and courtyard is Toompea Castle, an oft-rebuilt stone stronghold with a host of perennial attractions, such as the Pikk Hermann tower hailing from
medieval time and the Russian-era Riigikogu building now functioning as the
seat of the Estonian Parliament. Opposite the rose-colored classicists
structure is the dome-topped Aleksander Nevski Cathedral kitted predominately
with Tsarist icons. Echoing the city’s roller-coaster history, the story of
this elevated fortification has the make of a Hollywood epic - intrigue and
romance, tense power-plays of greed and struggle for survival. For the historic
big picture go to Bastion Tunnels, an underground network of passageways turned
into a interactive tour through time, showing their use as cushions from
incoming artillery and hideouts for Soviet dissidents. The entrance is at the
foot of Kiek in de Kok, an ancient tower whose name
means “peek into the kitchen”, referring to how guards would spy on
the working classes. Today it’s both a museum of medieval weaponry and a
photography gallery.
Although Tallinn’s past is a source of endless fascination, this year is all about celebrating the present. Taking on its status as 2011 European Capital of Culture, an honor it shares with Turku
in Finland, the city debuts a yearlong schedule chock-full of contemporary art
and urban culture. From April through June, for instance, the student-focused
contemporary art triennial Eksperimenta! brings together
the new-media work of young artists from 14 countries that centre around the
theme ‘space’. Organized by art studio Sally Stuudio on the Song Festival
grounds, where Estonia succeeded in throwing off the Soviet yoke by way of the
‘Singing Revolution of 1988, this inaugural festival aims to break the
educational mold of art through a series of workshops, concerts, art festivals
and picnics. This landmark location will also host the 11th Youth Song and
Dance Celebrations the first few days of July, which will see over 35000 people
gather to showcase the diversity and distinctiveness of traditional Estonian
folk songs and dances.
The peak of the cultural program arrives with the onset of summer. A trio of festivals are held from May 28 to
Jun 5, including the street art focused Tallinn Treff Festival,
NB Festival staging fresh theatrical productions from maritime
nations, as well as the 30th annual Tallinn Old Town Days,
which hosts a myriad of concerts and theatrical performances representing the
German, Danish, Russian, Finnish and Swedish influences on Estonia. Several
events reflect on the sea that has been vital to the country’s development
including the Tallinn Maritime Days and
Nargen Festival featuring classical music concerts and a water carnival on the
small island of Nargen a few nautical kilometers from the capital’s shores.
Beyond the bustling medieval quarter,
there’s plenty of artistic eye candy in the lush thickets of Kadriorg Park.
Constructed as part of the palace estate, the park’s hundred hectares is done
up with immaculate gardens, flower beds, avant-garde statues, fountains and a
swan pond with a cute little gazebo, perfect for an afternoon of relaxation.
The palace in question is a stunning example of Baroque architecture, built by
Italian architect Niccoló Michetti for Czar Peter the Great and his wife
Catherine I. Today, it gives home to the Art Museum of Estonia, exhibiting 16th
century to 18th-century works by Dutch, German, Italian and Russian masters.
Another architectural landmark of the park is KUMU, a high-tech
modern art museum carved into a natural limestone wall on the design of Finnish
architect Pekka Vapaavouri. Displayed across its seven stories is a rich
spectrum of late 20th-century Estonian art, from impressionism to Socialist
Realist works. A more playful introduction to art is provided by
Miia-Milla-Manda, a hands-on creativity center on the western edge of the park
with an array of interactive activities to keep the young ‘uns entertained.
Culture on the Plate
For a cultural fix of a delectable nature, Tallinn serves up a smorgasbord of Estonian, Russian and international flavors. The most-lauded of restaurants is Olde Hansa, a
medieval-style place set inside a well-preserved Hanseatic merchant’s house
just off the Old Town square. It may look a bit touristy and tacky, but there’s
actually a bona fide medieval feel here: the faithfully modeled wood-heavy
interior lit by candlelight, the young waitstaff in period costumes, the
string-plucking band playing medieval tunes and a historically authentic fare.
From the list of feasts on the menu, try the Royal Hunting Feast with its
marinated bear and elk sausage, wild birds flavored with saffron, liver pate
and dark breads topped with ham, nuts and fresh cheese.
A gourmet experience of a Russian variety can be had in Nevskij restaurant, tucked at the ground level of Hotel St. Petersbourg. The interior - flush with intricately designed furnishings,
samovars and even a speaking parrot - and the menu of aristocrat staples such
as beef Stroganoff and blinis with smoked salmon and capers or Keta caviar.
Perhaps trumping them all in terms of sheer high-style ambition and culinary
achievement, however, is Vertigo, local TV chef Imre Kose’s
latest venue. On the top floor of glitzy new business complex, diners are
treated to a panorama that takes in the whole of Tallinn’s Old Town and
upper-crust Estonian fare with a strong Italian and Mediterranean accent.
