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Long-respected for their skills with jenever, the Dutch family-owned Nolet Distillery ventures into a new spiritual territory: super-premium vodka.

by Anna J. Kutor

Photo courtesy of Nolet Distillery

In the cut-throat business of booze, success is remaining competitive throughout the constant flux of trends and
innovations. The burgeoning interest in artisanal alcoholic beverages over the
past several decades has led today’s tipplers toward custom-made liquors with
historic pedigrees, small-batch distillations and super-premium spirits with
unwavering commitment to quality. These changing flavor profiles have bode well
for the Nolet family, an entrepreneurial clan who have been distilling booze in
the small Dutch town of Schiedam for over 300 years.

Liquor Lineage

The art of spirit making at the Nolet Distillery reaches back to 1691, when Joannes Nolet, a prominent burgher, set up his eponymous jevener-producing factory.That bare-brick, windmill-propelled
bastion of industrial prowess in Schiedam has been home the family-run business
ever since, passing down from father to son for ten generations.

Until the dawn of the 20th century, the distilling industry in the Rotterdam region
was a natural, as Dutch as cheese and clogs, and jenever, a strong malt-based
spirit, was the country’s liquid source of pride. Wartime austerity measures
and lingering economic hardship saw over 400 distilleries in the area fall by
the wayside, but in their wake, the go-getting Nolet Distillery found success
with a new niche product, super-premium Ketel One vodka.

Photo courtesy of Notel Distillery

This smooth-tasting spirit, perfected and
branded by Carolus Nolet Snr, current chairman and tenth-generation patriarchal
head of the company since 1979, is distilled from fermented wheat mash using
“Distilleerketel #1”, an original 19th century alembic copper kettle
(hence the name). The distillate, prepared in small batches, is filtered
through charcoal and rested in tile lined tanks waiting to be sampled and approved
for taste, aroma and clarity - a task traditionally performed by a member of
the Nolet clan. At the end of the arduous process is a crystal-clear, 80-proof
vodka that “possesses refined elegance, distinctive smoothness and
unmatched quality”.

Raising the Bar

“Loyalty is instilled by quality and quality is instilled by simplicity,” says Carolus Nolet Snr, the
67-year-old chairman. His direct and to-the-point way of thinking is mirrored
in the brand’s so-called discovery marketing strategy, which gives consumers
and influencers the thrill of discovering a something new by letting them
taste-testing Ketel One against other high-end vodkas. Part hands-on education,
part word-of-mouth buzz, this honest-to-goodness approach to advertising has
carefully and progressively cultivated strong consumer loyalty.

The proof lies at least partially in the
company’s record-breaking sales. In 1992, Carolus Snr. and Carl Jr., the two
youngest scions of the noble dynasty, introduced the Ketel One brand to
American audiences, which consequently, unleashed a tidal-wave of growth. In
the U.S. alone, the company went from selling some seven thousand nine-liter
cases in 1992 to a whopping 1,8 million cases in 2008, which accounts for 90
percent of global sales. And last year, to secure their “hottest beverage
on the block” status on the American market and tap into new revenue
streams, the Nolet Distillery set up a joint company with the Britain-based
Diageo, the world’s biggest drinks company, that works together in the exclusive,
worldwide import, sales, marketing and distribution of Ketel One. The 50
percent rights in this sales organization was sold
for $900 million (approximately €680 million). 

Alcohol trends and popular cocktail concoctions might come and go, but the Nolet
Distillery thrives regardless. By building on a strategic business acumen and
espousing a tradition that extols quality above quantity, the illustrious
company has emerged from the gauntlet of the 21th century as not only one of
the oldest lineage companies in the world but also a modern and
highly-successful Dutch spirit brand.

Move aside craft beer, there’s a new brew in Budapest and it’s revitalizing an age-old beverage.

by Anna J. Kutor

Hungary’s love of coffee is grounded in history, with many of
Budapest’s grand coffeehouses still flourishing, but gourmet java lovers
also have a number of new-wave cafes where they gather to sip their
favorite bitter brew.

Thanks to a strong Turkish and Austro-Hungarian influence, by the
dawn of the 20th century, the coffeehouse was deeply embedded in
Hungary’s cultural psyche. Often synonymous with the idea of
‘sanctuary’, coffeehouses were a center of social interaction where
writers, poets, artists, and politicians gathered to read, observe the
world, exchange ideas and philosophies, or plot rebellious acts. In
Budapest, the heyday of coffeehouses—between 1890 and 1940—saw the
establishment of many legendary cafes, including the Centrál Café in
1887, New York Café in 1894, and Múzeum Café in 1885. Luckily, many of
these venerable establishments still hold strong today, drawing a consistent clientele of tourists and returning local patrons.

But young Budapesters, in unison with many others around the world,
are taking to coffee as a lifestyle statement. No longer are city
slickers happy with just a strong cup of hot coffee—these days, we all
want a captivating, consistently high-quality yet cost-effective cup of
coffee served in a stylish, fashion-forward setting. First to enter
Budapest was the Western-style ‘on-the-go’ coffee craze that brought
with it branded coffee chains such as Starbucks, California Coffee, and
Costa Coffee, where caffeine addicts can always score non-fat grande
macchiato with a dash of cinnamon or even an organic, Fair-trade triple
Italian-style espresso. And while these chains are popular (and
ever-expanding), a new wave of independent cafes focusing on the sights,
smells, sounds, ambiance, and emotions that come with the coffee
experience have been gaining momentum in the Hungarian capital.

Whether you’re on the lookout for a cafe with artistic decor,
searching for a rare bean from Columbia, or simply craving some
mouth-watering treats to pair with your caffeine fix, you’ll find many
unique third wave coffee shops to suit your taste. Here are our picks
for the best artisanal coffee shops in Budapest.

Blue Bird Cafe

Dob utca 16, Budapest 1072, +36 30 208 0580

Stationed inside the always-busy Gozsdu Udvar in downtown Pest, this
devoted coffee bar takes its bean roasting very seriously. The Ukrainian
couple operating the place source the best beans from around the world,
while skilled baristas roast and ground them on the spot for proud
caffeine addicts to take home or enjoy on the eclectically-decorated
premises. Aside from the great coffee, you’ll want to relax here with
fresh pastry or a plate of handmade macaroons.

Espresso Embassy

Arany János utca 15, Budapest 1051, +36 30 964 9530

A part of the new generation of quality coffee shops touting the
craft coffee thing, this 2013 entrant is a busy stop for all the
high-powered bankers, businessman, and embassy workers who get their
morning fix here. Beneath the vaulted, beige-tinted brick ceilings a
team of barista’s roast and sell fine coffee beans, turning them into
perfectly proportioned, fruity espressos. There’s a nice selection of
pastries available, and high-speed Wifi to complement the coffee.

Fekete

Múzeum krt 5, Budapest 1053, +36 1 787 7503

Simply named “Black” (a popular moniker for coffee in Hungarian),
this hole-in-the-wall coffee spot is perpetually packed with
caffeine-starved university students and discerning coffee types. The
master baristas behind the bar brew a clean cuppa using the impressive
La Marcozzo machine and fair-trade beans from the developing world that
are ground on Super Jolly and Volcano machines. If you’re not in a
hurry, try one of their decadent cakes and lounge for a while in the
small garden patio out back.

Kontakt

Károly Körút 22, Budapest 1052, + 36 1 952 1821

It’s a toss up whether this cool Jewish-district cafe is best known
for its nitrogen-powered coffee tap, the Roket, or the sinfully
delicious cakes that overwhelm the sweet selection. Roket is a
cold-steeped brew which is prepared cold and poured on tap like a beer.
Besides this new-age coffee concoction, coffee aficionados will
appreciate the line-up of specialty beans and the expert craftsmanship
that goes into making every cup of espresso or latte. To enjoy these
delicacies at home, the many grinders, beans and designer coffee-making
items that are on display are also available for purchase.

Lumen Gallery & Cafe

Mikszáth Kálmán tér 2, Budapest 1088, +36 1 781 5156

From the outside in, the mood at Lumen Gallery & Cafe is
decidedly upscale and artistic. A wooden deck filled with tables and
chairs announce its presence on Mikszath ter, while the bright interior
is filled with contemporary photographs and artwork. It’s the perfect
place for young artsy types to get a glimpse of Hungary’s new-age art
while sipping through a range of locally roasted beans from around the
world. There’s also a range of craft beers and Hungarian wines, if
that’s more your speed.

Madal Cafe

Hollán Ernő utca 3, Budapest 1136, +36 20 281 9691

Just steps away from busy Jászai Mari tér, this low-key and cozy
coffee sanctuary has a cult-like following for its high-quality brews,
using roasted arabicas sourced from Austria and England. The natural
blonde-wood furnishings and zen atmosphere are in line with the spirit
of Sry Chimnoy, a spiritual leader simply known as Madal for whom the
cafe was named. There’s a simple yet satisfying menu of cakes and snacks
to go with your coffee as well as a range of newspapers to keep you
occupied while you sip.

My Little Melbourne Coffee

Madács Imre út 3, Budapest 1075, +36 30 394 7002

With a location smack dab in the middle of the tourist-heavy Jewish
district, this tiny cafe provides the perfect place to fuel up for a
long day at the office. It’s also a serendipitous spot to recharge for
travelers. Order a cup of foamy latte topped with an amazing latte art
design and enjoy with fresh croissant. For lunch, ask for a salad, a
sandwich, or one of the many freshly squeezed juice options and soak up
the cross-cultural Australian atmosphere in middle of bustling Budapest.

Printa

Rumbach Sebestyén utca 10, Budapest 1075, +36 30 292 0329

Every convert to new-wave craft coffee has a story about the ‘aha
moment’ and many a coffee fiend has experienced that in this
design-shop-cum-cafe. The three passionate baristas behind the bar make
Has Been coffee sourced from a Bolivian family farm, turning it into a
heavy-bodied espresso kick that is the base of all the artistic coffee
creations. There’s also drip coffee from a Hario V60 as well as French
press coffee to satisfy all java needs. As an added bonus, you’ll also
find plenty of designer apparel (think limited-edition shoes, t-shirts,
and eco-design items) and a massive assortment of unique screen prints.
For DIY artists there’s also possibility to sign up for workshops and
courses in various design fields.

Tamp & Pull

Czuczor utca 2, Budapest 1093, +36 30 668 3051

There are three Tamp & Pull outposts in Budapest and they all
reflect the coffee obsession of award-winning barista and owner Attila
Molnár. One look inside the original outpost on Czuczor street (near the
Central Market)—complete with a variety of coffee roasters, a
blackboard listing all the brews, and a bar embellished with a La Scala
and copper-and-tin constructed FaemaStar espresso machines—will have you
swearing by its industrial-chic style. Tamp Lab on Váci Út is the new,
big sister establishment that also offers workshops and cultural events,
besides a selection of sandwiches, yogurts and biscuits. Regardless of
the location, you can’t go wrong with any of their caffeinated ‘black,
white, soft, and tea options—you’re guaranteed quality and professional
service.

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by Anna J. Kutor