Poland’s fashion and design landscape is far from stodgy and stale. In fact, the cascade of fresh creative talent is forging a new direction in artistic expression, one that brims with confident, smart and
outward-looking energy.

by Anna J. Kutor

Design, as a conscious element of culture, is about change and improvement. It’s about creating something that is new, individual, more efficient or visually stimulating. Design serves to
enhance people’s standard of living and strengthen a country’s cultural
identity, while creativity in its various forms has become the new engine of
economic growth. Nowhere is this more true than in Poland, where the latest
crop of innovators have established a modern identity for the nation. By
marrying divergent thinking and problem solving with innovative application and
pragmatic business acumen, homegrown artists, designers and craftspeople are
putting Poland on the design map.

Fanciful Forms

Standing at the forefront of domestic design excellence, where tradition meets cutting-edge cool, is the
husband-and-wife designer duo of Konarska-Konarksi. Born and bred in Warsaw,
the bright young tandem launched their label in 1997 and have since tried their
hands at almost everything design has to offer - from paintings to public art,
interior design to graphics and on-air design for television -, making dynamic
figurative aesthetics and whimsical imagery their trademark along the way.
Their overtly non-uniform creations exemplify the ‘change-is-in-the-air’
character and spirit of many of today’s successful design ventures in Poland.
Decalogue, for example, was a poster exhibit on the facade of Warsaw’s Palace
of Culture and Science in 2004 that gave refreshingly different take on the Ten
Commandments. Roosters, an outdoor art installation in 2007, saw the lawn of
the French Embassy freckled with sixteen brightly colored, two-meter-tall
roosters that came alive by rotating in the wind. Moreover, the couple’s most
recent installation, Pegasuses, features five multi-colored mythological
horses standing in stark contrast to the palatial National Library before which
they stand.

“Artists in Poland have very little choice when it comes to cooperating with galleries because of the limited
number of such institutions,” says Beata Konarska, the female half of the
duo. So, in order to sidestep the convoluted and time-sensitive mechanisms of
the art market, the twosome also set up a totally alternative art institution
called ’ Art Store’. Built into the side of a recently-renovated cinema, Art
Store is, in essence, a single-painting installation made public through a
peephole in the wall. “For me as a painter ‘Art Store’ is extremely
valuable, as I get to display paintings fresh off the easel without having to
go through a curator or gallery manager,” Konarska continues. “With
this project, we created kind of living tissue in the city in which people can
see individual artwork 27/4, which express my current perception of
reality”.

Most telling of Konarska-Konarksi’s quirky sense of style is ‘Dog or Bitch’, their
city-centre design studio and concept store inaugurated at the end of 2008. It
is in this streamlined one-room space, as the label on the entrance states,
where they perform “plastic surgery on all things imperfect, take icons into
new dimensions and present psychotherapy of incurably sick toys”. Rows of
orange rabbits, green squirrels, playfully relaxing children and wide grinning
shark heads in a variety of vivid hues line the walls of the store. This
introductory collection of life-sized fiberglass and poly resin characters
(priced between 80-8000 PLN) be expanded throughout the coming months with
posters, graphic art and other offbeat works of art.

Fashion Forward

In the field of fashion design, Poland has certainly grown up in style over the past decade, with a slew of
up-and-coming independent designers turning heads on local and international
catwalks. One of the country’s most exciting and established fashion icons,
Arakadius (from the artistic pseudonym of Arkadiusz Weremczuk), has been
shaking up the fashion scene from London to Kuala Lumpur since the turn of the
new millennium. Eccentricity, sarcasm and playful originality are exactly what
the fashion world has come to love about this 39-year-old trendsetter. Colin McDowell,
one of he world’s foremost fashion historians famously said of him ‘some say avant-garde young designer Arkadius is, like Byron, mad, bad and dangerous to know. Others think he is a fashion great
genius”. In one of his statement-making shows entitled Virgin, he poked
fun at the oh-so-serious religiousness of his homeland, with Madonna-printed
evening dresses and shell tops with papal insignia.

Polish fashion’s hottest duo, Paprocki & Brzozowski, are also in the business of
shaping sexy, sophisticated and easily wearable high-end couture. Since
graduating from the Łódź Academy of Fine Arts in 2002, the style-conscious pair
have created line of female apparel that is aggressive and sensual, flamboyant
and fragile all at the same time. “In our case passion was first, which
then through hard work, perseverance, and loyalty turned into a
profession,” says Marcin Paprocki.

Quality of materials and details are other ingredients in the Paprocki & Brzozowski
success story, to which a new chapter was added in 2008 with the introduction
of “Her Majesty”. A girly line of ready-to-wear clothes for the
hot-weather season, the regal collection was custom-tailored for the Poland’s
largest street-fashion brand Reserved. Scaling back on the glamour but still
bringing the sensual, the new collection boasts floral patterns, clean outlines
and sparkling blue, silver and black dresses that fit to the lifestyle of
frugal shoppers. 

Independent Identity

Spicing up the life of fashion-savvy locals are the irregular but neatly tailored creations of Dagmara Rosa. The
29-year old designer expresses her kooky, smart and slightly racy individuality
through her garments, which are multi-textured, patchwork pieces in mostly
sombre tones of black, brown, grey and white. Her latest collection, inspired
by insects, silent movies and city surroundings (think Warsaw’s block buildings
and grey streets), featured lots of layering and flexibility. These designs, as
well as others, are now on display at the Warsaw-base boutique Fashion_By and
in a few select stores in London, Berlin, Paris and Tokio.

A similar sense of confidence and vitalistic force is present in the creations of
Gosia Baczyńska, a progressive-minded couturier who debuted her self-titled
label in 2000. Having studied ceramics and glass design at the Wrocław Academy
of Fine Arts, Baczyńska hones her skills in the field of fashion while working
with various acclaimed designers in London. Under her own label she has
developed a well-distinguished style that is lauded for its diaphanous dresses
and painstakingly crafted blouses made mostly from brash and metallic fabrics -
pampering today’s urban fashionista with uncompromising glamour and romance.

“Raw-edged and bold, subtly feminine, unabashedly romantic and somehow mysterious even, my
clothes appeal to modern women who believe in craftsmanship and original
vision,” says Baczyńska. In her latest collection she animates the
medieval canvases of Flemish artists Rogier van der Weyden and Hugo van der
Goes by incorporating their work into the garments using an original fabric
imprinting technique that blends the real draping with the imaginary fold of
the print. As for future plans, she is in the process of setting up a flagship
venue on Warsaw’s Floriańska Street that will brings together a workshop and
retail space for her new pret-a-porter collections and individual designs.

United They Stand

Although creative types are notoriously individualistic, many have benefited from interdisciplinary collaborations and entrepreneurial endeavors such as the Young Polish Designers Foundation
(YPDF). Initiated by Dutch business magnate Dion Heijmans in 2005 with the aim
of pooling, supporting and promoting Poland’s freshest and most talented
fashion designers. In a few short years, this vision was brought to fruition by
the organization’s general manager Anna Rembielińska and creative director
Wojtek Witczak, and the foundation now represents the works of around 50.

“We bring together creations of promising students and start-up practitioners who
want to sell their designs,” explains Rembielińska, looking effortlessly
stylish and sassy in the showroom of the foundation. “Once the designers
have a clear idea of what they want to create, they present their pieces and we
do what we can to make it work. This way, we consider the foundation to be a
stepping stone to further development and marketability for rising fashion
talents.”

Stationed on the second floor of Warsaw’s Promenada shopping arena, the YPDF showroom
stocks the very latest models of about a dozen fledgling designers, continually
shifting from one season to the next.Some stand-out pieces of the current
display include the works of Agga B., Marek Witt, Mateusz Tomczyk, Agutti and
Dora Krincy. The avant-garde selection of garments - predominantly dreamy
cocktail dresses and evening wear - are united in their intricate
craftsmanship, select materials and, as Witczak highlights with a
matter-of-face authority, calm elegance. Above and beyond the pool of
individual designs ,the foundation has also rolled out it’s own line entitled
‘YPDF Limited Edition’, with the new spring/summer collection coming out in
April.

Ace Accessories

Jewellery design is yet another artistic
discipline where Polish artist’s demonstrate their unlimited creativity and
bespoke style. Leading the Poland’s glitter bunch is Apart (a name derived from
the initials of its owners, Adam and Piot Rączyń), a 100-outlet enterprise specializing in high-style silver and diamond jewellery and wedding rings. Next in line is the Poland’s longest-operating jewellery company, W. Kruk, a “since 1840” operation offering a over-reaching range of gold and silver
jewellery, gemstones and branded watches. The third largest player on the
market is Yes, a Poznań-based jewellery retailer operating over 70 franchise
outlets throughout the country. Over the years it come to be recognizes as a
brand that delivers inspirational yet affordable gemstone-studded silver and
gold necklaces, earrings, brooches and charms. 

A horde of well-known independent jewellery artists are also contributing to the
growing prestige of Polish design. Designers such as Maryla Dubiel, Jarosław
Westermark, Marcin Tymiński, Jan Suchodolski and Marcin Gronkowski, among
others, offer a kaleidoscopic diversity of lightweight ornaments that make a
strong statement. Working with precious metals and gems and a whole lot of
ingenuity, their creations represent a melange of tradition and modernity,
culture and nature.

Amber, an amorphous organic material found in abundance along the shorelines of the
Baltic Sea, has formed the base of a diverse range of jewellery designs. A
great example of this is Ambertop, a luxe jewellery label founded by Agata
Hryniewicz who says “amber reminds me of music: it’s full of passion,
charm and elegance”. First launching a flagship store on the tiny coastal
town of Braniewo in 1996, Hryniewicz’s hand-made ethereal creations fast became
a firm favorite of sophisticates in the know, so much so that the company set
up a second outlet in the French city of Bordeaux a year later. ”

“Nowadays, the jewellery market is swamped with cheap and tacky pieces, so the priority of
creating something unique is becoming ever more important,” says
Hryniewicz. Definitely standing out from the crowd, her line of exquisitely
sculpted and detailed necklaces, pendants, bracelets and rings, among others,
all merge natural materials like corals, pearls and especially amber with gold,
silver and copper. “Creating hand-crafted jewellery that is not just a
product but a piece of art has been my life-long passion and some people say
that having a passion is like having a second life.”

Forget the overly restrictive organised tours and sightsee Warsaw with the locals on bus number 180.

by Anna J. Kutor

Visiting the various touristic attractions of a city by public transportation is a time consuming and painstaking plan-making task that leaves most tourist opting for the convenience of an organized excursion. But
in Warsaw, travelers can leave their guidebooks and city maps at home and explore the gems of Poland’s capital at their own pace by taking the tourist bus line 180.

Used equally by local shoppers and commuters as by travelers
who cherish the freedom and flexibility in sightseeing, the route takes in or
passes close by to almost all of Warsaw’s
main tourist attractions. Taking just less then an hour, the route covers Wilanów,
the Royal Route and ends at Powązki cemetery. The on-bus route map is helpful tool for direction as it indicates
the location of main sights along the ride. With unlimited hop-on, hop-off
privileges you can plan your personal itinerary throughout the heart the city. Just
make sure to get a day-pass or a single ticket for every
section of the ride.

Starting at Powązki cemetery (Powązki-CM. Wojskowy), the vast
burial ground of Poland’s great minds since the 18th century, take
the bus to pl. Krasińskich station where on one side you can soak in the
relaxing atmosphere of the Ogród Park and on the other, enjoy the neatly
designed turquoise-colored Supreme Court structure and the soldier statues
commemorating the warriors of Warsaw Uprising. A short stroll down Dluga Street leads
to the edge of the colorful castle district, interspersed with gift and coffee
shops, galleries and atmospheric restaurants.

Skip Kapitulna stop (unless you want to snap a shot of the towering Varsovian
fighting mermaid statue) and continue to pl. Zamkowy station marks the beginning of the Royal Route and gives easy access to Royal Castle, the Presidential Palace, St. Anna Church and the
laid-back residential Mariensztat area. From here on down the Krakowskie Przedmieście street is definitely
worth the walk as the attractions start to multiply, but if you opt for the bus
the subsequent Hotel Bristol station drops you at the foot of the Europejski Hotel, an ideal location to grab a cup of hot coffee. For a quick caffeine fix try the non-stop Bistro a la Fourchete
on the buildings closest corner, or if you want to enjoy your dark nectar with
some pastry or finger food, the best option is Café Bristol across the street. Just a stones through away, Pilsudskiego Square features Tomb of the Unknown Solider, the ultra-modern Millennium Building, the
splendid Saxon Gardens and the stately building of the Opera House.

Back on the tour track, a few outstanding landmarks the route passes includes the main building of the Warsaw University and the Academy of Fine Arts, the Potocki Palace
and the monument of famous Polish writer Adam Mickiewicz and astronomer
Nicholas Copernicus. Get off the bus at Nowy
Świat to wander around the city’s premier shopping avenue that boasts numerous designer
boutiques, culinary establishments and artistic outlets. Finished with all the
(window) shopping jump back on the bus at Foksal
and watch from the comfort of your seat the passing statue of Charles de
Gaulle, the monumental National Museum, socialist-style building of the Warsaw Stock Exchange and the simplistic circular St. Alexander’s Church on Three Crosses Square.
Ujazdowskie Avenue starts at pl. Trzech Krzyży, a street lined on one side by numerous foreign embassies and the Park Ujazdowski and the royal Łazienki park on the other. Hop off at the pl. Na
Rozdrożu stop to visit the Center for Contemporary Art or at Łazienki Królewskie to see the characteristic
Chopin monument and rose-filled garden complex. Just down the hill, Spacerowa stop in front of the Hyatt
hotel lets you venture around the Łazienki parks lesser known areas like the 17th
century baroque Belvedere Palace that houses a mesmerizing greenhouse-cum-restaurant.

The last worth-while stop is Wilanów station where you can walk around the picturesque summer residence of King Jan III Sobieski – a palace referred to as the Polish Versailles -, and its well-kept surrounding labyrinth-like parks. Pop in the Poster Museum for a quick peek at Poland’s
renowned poster-art history before boarding the bus back to the city center.

Visit Warsaw’s milk bars, a Communist-era institution, before they go sour, says Anna J. Kutor

At first glance bar mleczny - milk bars - are humble self-service
canteens serving cheap Polish food. But look a little closer and you’ll find
home-grown ingredients and the unglamorous ambience of a less complicated ear.  

These state-subsidized fast-food outlets were launched in the 1960s for
low-income Polish workers - the laborers, factory hands and cleaning ladies
who kept the system moving. During their heyday in the 1970s and 1980s, milk
bars made good use of the overabundance of Polish milk (hence the official
name), serving dairy-based dishes such as milk soup, pierogi dumplings with
sauerkraut and pancakes with cottage cheese and apple stuffing.

After the collapse of Communism in 1989, milk featured less prominently
on the menu as different foods became available, but people still referred to
them by their old name. Capitalism also meant a slash in subsidies and new,
more exciting places to eat. Most milk bars went out of business.

Long-life Milk Bars

Today, the dozen or so privately owned milk bars still subsidized by the
government and still surviving in Warsaw have acquired something of a cult
status. Most are mobbed with pensioners, students and frugal businessmen who
all share a craving: for familiar food at budget prices in endearingly ramshackle
surrounds, for throw-away cutlery, worn-out plates and kitschy plastic flowers,
and for kitchen ladies in battered aprons and handwritten menus on the walls.

But milk bars might be going the way of the centrally planned economy.
So next time you’re in Poland, show your support for these unique national
institutions by popping in to try slightly sour zurek - white borscht - soup or
kluski slaski - Silesian noodles - with mushroom topping.

Bar Mleczny Prasowy

Once the hangout of the publishing crowd (hence the name Prasowy,
meaning press), the venue now draws a diverse mix of folks who enjoy the cheap
comfort food.

Bar Mleczny Familijny

An affordable dining alternative on Warsaw’s main promenade, this
living-room-sized joint sees never-ending line of hungry locals waiting to
place their orders.

Bar Uniwersytecki

An old-school fixture stationed next to the Warsaw University
complex packing a predominantly student crowd. Cheap tucker with a heavy dose
of grease.

Bar Bambino

The economical frill-free
décor – despite the recent renovation – pairs well with wholesome homey meals
like their flagship fluffy potato dumplings and beetroot-and-yoghurt
cold soup.

Bar Ząbkowski

This nondescript little place, with its blue-and-white colour scheme, attracts
the elderly and artsy-type locals from its neighbouring Praga precinct.

Is it physically possible to be in two countries at the same
time? Well, sort of: the towns of Baarle-Hertog and Baarle-Nassau make up one
of Europe’s strangest places to live, being part Belgian, part Dutch.

by Anna J. Kutor

Budapest, a buzzing Eastern European metropolis, has always been
recognized as a beautiful, unique and captivating destination. From its
cultural heritage to its splendid museums, proud architectural landmarks
to its peaceful gardens, and beyond, this bustling city has a lot to
offer the first-time visitor. To help you get your bearing, Budapest
native Anna J. Kutor guides you through the practicalities of exploring
and enjoying Hungary’s largest city.

Cultural break, culinary adventure or hedonistic holiday? A trip to
Budapest means never having to choose. But before you dive into the city
like a hungry bee, it’s best to plan your trip, including booking
flights, finding a convenient and good place to stay and mapping out the
site which you are interested in visiting during you trip, so that you
can get the most out of this ever-changing capital.

Getting to Budapest

Depending on where your coming from you’ll either arrive by plane or
train. International flights land at the international terminal
(Terminal 2) of the Budapest Liszt Ferenc International Airport which
received a complete makeover in 2011 and now features a high glass
atrium filled with restaurants, cafes, souvenir shops and even a table
fussball table. There’s a second terminal, Terminal 1,  for low-budget
airlines flying within the Schengen territory. Depending on traffic, the
trip to the airport by public transport or taxi may take you 20-50
minutes. For the easiest and quickest way to the town center from both
airports, choose one of the numerous Minibus Services on the spot, which
cost about 4000 HUF (around13 EUR). The airport shuttle bus 200E
departs every 10-12 minutes from Terminal 2 and it goes via Terminal 1
to the Metro station Kobánya-Kispest, which takes approximately 20
minutes. From there Metro 2 (the blue line) goes to the centre of
Budapest in another 10-15 minutes. For more airport information, check their site or call the info line on +36 (1) 296-7000. A rail
connection is now also available between Terminal 1 and Nyugati railway
station.  

Budapest has three major train stations: Nyugati Palyaudvar (Western
Station), Keleti Palyaudvar (Eastern Station) and Deli Palyaudvar
(Southern Station). As their names indicate, international trains from
the west pull into Nyugat, while Keleti serves as the Eastern railway
hub. The grand 19th-century Nyugati, smack dab in the middle of the
city, owes its design to the Eiffel company of Paris. The Blue line of
the metro is below the station, with numerous bus and tram lines
stopping out front, so to getting to your final destination from here
will be a piece of cake. The newly-renovated Keleti station, located in
Baross Square is served by the Red line of the metro, in addition to
numerous bus, trolleybus and tram lines.

Cultural break, culinary adventure or hedonistic holiday? A trip to
Budapest means never having to choose. But before you dive into the city
like a hungry bee, it’s best to plan your trip, including booking
flights, finding a convenient and good place to stay and mapping out the
site which you are interested in visiting during you trip, so that you
can get the most out of this ever-changing capital.

Getting to Budapest

Depending on where your coming from you’ll either arrive by plane or
train. International flights land at the international terminal
(Terminal 2) of the Budapest Liszt Ferenc International Airport which
received a complete makeover in 2011 and now features a high glass
atrium filled with restaurants, cafes, souvenir shops and even a table
fussball table. There’s a second terminal, Terminal 1,  for low-budget
airlines flying within the Schengen territory. Depending on traffic, the
trip to the airport by public transport or taxi may take you 20-50
minutes. For the easiest and quickest way to the town center from both
airports, choose one of the numerous Minibus Services on the spot, which
cost about 4000 HUF (around13 EUR). The airport shuttle bus 200E
departs every 10-12 minutes from Terminal 2 and it goes via Terminal 1
to the Metro station Kobánya-Kispest, which takes approximately 20
minutes. From there Metro 2 (the blue line) goes to the centre of
Budapest in another 10-15 minutes. For more airport information, check
http://bud.hu or call the info line on +36 (1) 296-7000. A rail
connection is now also available between Terminal 1 and Nyugati railway
station. 

Budapest has three major train stations: Nyugati Palyaudvar (Western
Station), Keleti Palyaudvar (Eastern Station) and Deli Palyaudvar
(Southern Station). As their names indicate, international trains from
the west pull into Nyugat, while Keleti serves as the Eastern railway
hub. The grand 19th-century Nyugati, smack dab in the middle of the
city, owes its design to the Eiffel company of Paris. The Blue line of
the metro is below the station, with numerous bus and tram lines
stopping out front, so to getting to your final destination from here
will be a piece of cake. The newly-renovated Keleti station, located in
Baross Square is served by the Red line of the metro, in addition to
numerous bus, trolleybus and tram lines.

Budapest’s Best Sights

From Heroes’ Square to the medieval Buda Castle, Budapest is known for its grandeur and
charm. As a newcomer, the city’s must-see attractions may seem to
numerous, but luckily the city center is easily walkable and public
transport is easy to maneuver so you’ll be able to pack in as many
sights as you can into your itinerary. Here’s a quick-reference guide to
the top sights in the capital:

Parliament

In Budapest, a number of bridges dominate the city’s panorama along
with the Hungarian parliament building, the third largest in the world.
Posed along the Danube bank, the eclectic Parliament building was
completed in 1904 predominantly in neo-Gothic style. From its inception
it has been of of the city’s main symbols, not only as an architectural
landmark but also the seat of the Hungarian government, and since 2000,
as the home of the Hungarian crown jewels. English-language guided tours
of the building are available for individuals or groups (advanced
booking is required) every day of the week, except during Parliamentary
sessions.

Castle District

You can’t miss Budapest’s Castle Hill, a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage
site, which consists of two parts: the reconstructed medieval city
called the Castle District which boasts some of the the city’s top
historical monuments, and the Royal Palace
on the southern side. Highlights of the Castle District include the
newly-renovated Matthias Church with it neo-Gothic towers rising above
the area; Fisherman’s Bastion and the Holy Trinity Column. In the Royal
Palace section, which long functioned as the residence of Hungarian
rulers, a few stand-out sights include the Hungarian National Gallery,
the Budapest History Museum and Szechenyi National Library. To get back
down to foot of the Chain Bridge, take the unique little cab car known
as the funicular (Budavari Siklo).

Andrassy Avenue & Heroes’ Square

Taking a stroll down this historic boulevard will make you fall in love
with the city as some of the most beautiful cultural and historic
buildings are along this tree-lines route. Stretching 2.5-kilometers
from Deak Square, through Oktogon Square all the way to Heroes’ Square,
this wide avenue is home to some eye-catching landmarks, including the
majestic Opera House, House of Terror (the former headquarters of the
AVH secret police which now functions as a museum), and modern
art-focused Kogart House.

Palace on the Danube

Budapest’s Palace of the Arts, home to the 1700-seater Bela Bartok
National Concert Hall, the Festival Theatre and the Ludwig Museum of
Contemporary Art, is an eye-catching centre of culture poised on the
Danube riverbank. The imposing culture complex, completed in 2005 on the
designs of local architects Zoboki, Demeter and Associates, is a design
marvel, outfitted with sculpted walnut wood, a variety of marble and
floor-to-ceiling glass walls to let the light flood in.

Your first sojourn to Budapest will surely be filled with a variety of
sightseeing adventures and unique travel tales, but as the city keeps
constantly developing and reinventing itself, there’s plenty of
attractions that will keep experienced travelers coming back for more.