The Gastro Guide to Hungaricums I
February 23, 2017Hungary has illustrious features and inventions in spades,
but the country’s most outstanding achievements and treasures are now protected
under the term Hungaricums. Below, we highlight the matchless flavours and
culinary products that display the pure essence of Hungary.
by Anna J. Kutor
Hungarians, as many European cultures, are fiercely
protective and proud of their unique material, intellectual and natural
treasures and inventions. In order to shield and preserve a set of uniquely
Hungarian products on a local and international scale , The Hungaricum Act was
established in 2012 and has brought together such quintessentially local
products such as Herend porcelain, Matyo folk art and Hungarian grey cattle and
mangalica. Some of the most noteworthy and prominent assets of Hungary,
however, are to be found in its gastronomy, so here we shine the spotlight on Hungaricums that showcase the country’s peak performance in terms of food and wine. The complete list of Hungaricums is
available here.
Paprika
As György Láng, the Hungarian restaurateur famous for
breathing new life into the renowned Gundel restaurant, wrote in his Cuisine of
Hungary: “Paprika is to the Hungarian cuisine as wit is to its
conversation - not just a superficial garnish, but an integral element…the
marriage of paprika and Hungarian cooking was almost predestined.” Though
not native, Hungary’s spicy, red obsession grew from the 16th century (when
either Turks or neighboring ethnic groups from the Balkans introduced it on
local soil) and is now so omnipresent that a big portion of the domestic
culinary lexicon includes a hearty dose of paprika. The towns of Kalocsa and
Szeged, both in the southern part of the Great Plain, vie for the title of
“Paprika Capital”, grow and produce various grades of the iconic
product. Besides these two paprika heavyweights, the town of Szentes also
produces their own unique version that has elevated it into the Hungaricum
inventory.
In the Hungarian kitchen, flavor, color and aroma are equally important, which is
why there’s a clear distinction between the four official categorizations of
Hungarian paprika: különleges
(or “special quality” a mild and vibrant red version made from only
flawless, ripe peppers), csemege (“delicate”, with a strong paprika
flavor and a lighter yellow-red hue), édesnemes (“noble sweet”, a
lighter but more pungent paprika) and rózsa (an aromatic, dark red paprika
which tends to be strong). But taste is the real deal-breaker - sweet, vegetal
or more earthy, but far from bitter.
Gulyás
This renowned and beloved soup is one of the most readily identifiable symbols of Hungarian cuisine, and deservedly so, as this national dish typifies many local flavors. It is sold at every
restaurant, every festival, and even at the airport, but the most delicious and
authentic gulyás is made on hot summer days in massive iron cauldron’s of homes
throughout the country. György Láng, in his book on Hungarian cuisine,
traces the origins of the dish to the 9th century when it was simple,
meat-heavy soup prepared by the nomad herdsmen (known as ‘gulyás’). He states that to make the most authentic gulyás, on must “never use any flour. Never use
any other spice besides caraway. Never Frenchify it with wine. Never Germanize
it with brown sauce. Never put in any other garniture besides diced potatoes or
galuska (a small pasta-like
dumpling).” Today, this hearty,
one-pot meal is made primarily of beef, potatoes, carrots and onions that are
spiked with a solid dose of red paprika, bringing to each bite a rich brown
color and a sweet, pungent flavor.
Salami - Pick & Herz
Produced in Szeged, a town two hours south of Budapest,
Pick Salami is a meaty delicacy has been regarded as the heart of Hungarian
cuisine since its creation in 1869. It was founded by Marc Pick, a product
trader of Moravian Jewish origin, who set out to create an exceptional pork
product from his bountiful agrarian homeland that would rival the quality and
taste of the preferred Italian salamis of the time. Pick’s téli szalámi (winter
salami, named so for the colder months when it was traditionally produced) is
distinguished by its special combination of spices, wide girth, and the
protective “noble mold” that coats the sausage during its three-month
maturing period after it has been smoked. Rivaling Pick in its popularity and
prevalence is Herz Salami, which was originally produced by the Herz company
along the Danube banks in Budapest, but is under the ownership of Pick since
2013. Herz exudes the typical rich flavor and denseness of winter salami, but it
is a bit milder and more smooth than its Pick counterpart.
Szamos Marzipan
A family-run marzipan and chocolate manufacturing company,
Szamos epitomizes the nation’s devotion to craft and quality. Mátyás Szamos, a poor Serbian-born boy who grew up in Szentendre and started honing his marzipan rose making craft as an apprentace
confectioner in 1930s, launched his sweet empire from a small apartment in
Budapest. Today, the company boasts a factory in Pilisvörösvar employing over
250 people, 6 confectionaries and 16 stories throughout Hungary, a special
marzipan museum in Szentendre and the Szamos Gourmet House in the Vörösmarty
Sqaure that is a confectionary, cafe and chocolate factory all rolled into one
elegant palace that is decorate with Herendi porcelain products (another
Hungaricum). All carry the classic Szamos specialities of chocolate-covered marzipans,
handmade truffles, bonbons and cakes, made from top-notch ingredients such as
cocoa butter and premium almond paste.
Tokaj wine
Labelled the “king of wines, the wine of kings” by Louis XV of France, Hungary’s Tokaji wine has
been celebrate the world over for centuries. The entire historical wine region
of Tokaj-Hegyalja in the northeastern corner of the country falls under the
Hungaricum label, but it’s really the sweet wines produced in the area that
have made the area famous. Honey-gold, silky sweet aszú is the most iconic of
the bunch, made from grapes affected by so-called noble rot that shrivels the
grapes to a raisin-like state. Six grape varieties, all white, are premitted
for Tokaji production, but 90 percent of the region vineyard’s are planted with
Furmint and Hárslevelű. Besides aszú, look for other stand-out wines such as
single-varietal Furmints, Szamorodni and the rarest-of-the-rare Tokaji
Eszencia.
Túró Rudi
Wrapped in its trademark red polka-dotted wrapper, turo
rudi is a chocolate-covered cylinder of curd cottage cheese that has a strong hold
on Hungarian hearts. This indigenous and ingenious little snack was introduced
in 1968 after a decade of experimentation and its popularity grew by leaps and
bounds thanks to early viral marketing efforts (aka word of mouth), as well as
its irresistible taste. Beyond the classic bar, they now come in different
varieties with a small line of flavorings such as walnut, apricot, raspberry,
cherry or caramel running through the center.
Unicum
Another potent national drink that is stashed away in every
liqueur cabinet in Hungary, Unicum is a beloved bittersweet digestive made from
40 herbs and spices. According to family lore, in the late 1700s, the Royal
Physician to the Habsburg Court, Dr. József Zwack was ask to concoct a
medicinal liqueur for the ailing emperor, Joseph II. Voicing his pleasure he
reportedly said, “Dr Zwack, Das ist ein unicum!”(literally
translating to “This is unique”). Thus became Unicum the trademark
product of Zwack, Hungary’s best-known spirit maker that still operates under
the family’s hand in Budapest. The company now has a portfolio of over 200
liqueurs and brandies, but the chocolate-hued Unicum still shines as its
flagship, with its memorable bomb-shaped bottle, emergency-cross logo, and
truly unforgettable taste.