The Gastro Guide to Hungaricums II
February 23, 2017The culinary component of the Hungaricum collection show
off the best of what the Hungary has to offer - craftsmanship, singularly
engaging flavors and a time-honored heritage.
Acacia Honey
With acacia making up some one third of Hungary’s tree
stock, it’s no wonder that bees keep buzzing there direction , producing nearly
half of the domestic honey supply. Akacia honey, as a single-varietal honey
that is made from the nectar of a single flower variety is a distinctly pale in
color, has a delicately sweet flavor that is rich in fructose, hence its long
shelf life. It’s perfect for stirring into tea, spreading on thickly buttered
slices of bread or used as cooking ingredients as it mixes easily with liquids
and batters.
Baja Fisherman’s Soup
In Hungary’s arsenal of traditional soups, fisherman’s soup plays a substancial, yet secondary
supporting role to that of gulyás,
the most well-known of local soups. Born out of the prominent fishing
traditions along the Danube, Tisza rivers and Lake Balaton, this piquant dish
is prepared in a multitude of ways, but it’s most notable and unique version is
made in Baja, situated in the Southern Great Plains of Hungary. The Baja style
fisherman’s soup is made in a large iron cauldron using mainly carp - any
additional fish types are only used to intensify the taste -, onions and
high-quality paprika powder, as well as the defining ingredients of thin,
delicate pasta and the spicy cheery paprika.
Csabai Kolbász (Sausage from Csaba)
Kolbász is to Hungary what bratwurst is to Germany - part
sustenance, part palate adventure, part cultural identity. Whether it’s a
regular weekday or Christmas morning, this kitchen staple makes an appearance
at the breakfast and dinner table, in soups and scrambled eggs, and is also a
key ingredient in many complex warm dishes. Hungarian kolbász can be fatty, dry
or slightly dry, smoked, hard or soft, natural or with some chemical additives
and various degrees of spiciness. The most famous brands of kolbász are Gyulai
and Csabai - made respectively in the regions of Gyula and Békéscsaba - from
long-standing traditions that are still upheld today. A naturally smoked and
dry cured sausage, Csabai kolbász is unique in its sizable girth and piquant,
intensely paprika-fueled flavor. It was raised into the ranks of the elite
Hungaricum club in 2013 and is being manufactured by over 180 producers in
Békéscsaba.
Goose Liver Products
Goose liver, or more commonly known by its French moniker foie gras, is an indulgent treat in much
of the world, but in Hungary, it’s a fixture of the gastronomic domain that is
abundantly consumed in pates, parfaits, terrines and mousses. Accounting for
some 80 of the world’s production, Hungary produces over 2000 tons of
non-fattened goose liver, of which the vast majority (up to 85%) is exported,
mostly to France. At its best, goose liver has a lot of flavor and personality
so there’s no need for additional spices or add-ons when grilled, seared or
roasted. Hungarians tend to prefer simple variations of goose liver, served in
thick slices so the smooth and slightly sweet taste melts in the mouth. There
are piles of fresh, creamy-white goose livers at every butcher shop in
Budapest, where there’s a chose between non-fattened and fatted livers, but
supermarkets also stock frozen versions.
Fröccs (Spritzer)
The ultimate summertime drink that fizzles and refreshes, fröccs is the marriage of white wine or rose
with soda water. It’s no coincidence that this thirst-quenching
cocktail made it’s mark on the Hungarian bar scene and psyche, given the
abundance of wine production and the invention of soda water by the brilliant
Hungarian inventor Ányos Jedlik who was the first to create soda on an
industrial scale. The diminished quality of wine during Communist times gave
rise to the love of fröccs, but its popularity still persisted after the fall
of the Iron Curtain and you can still order a fröccs in practically every bar
and restaurant in Hungary. The preparation of this summertime classic has
developed into something of an art form with different proportions of wine and
soda or mineral water mixed to offer various degrees of strenght or weakness,
depending on the drinker’s personal preference.
Karcagi Bikapörkölt (Karcag Mutton Stew)
A rugged and mind-blowingly flavorsome dish, bikapörkölt (mutton stew) prepared in the
traditional Karcag style was the first recipe to be included in the Hungaricum
inventory. It is a centuries-old recipe prepared by the Cuman people residing
in Karcag and the surrounding region in east-central Hungary where sheep are
the primary source of meat in the diet of the common folk. Traditionally, the
stew is prepared in a massive cast-iron pot over an open fire in which the
entire animal is sautéed without the addition of liquid. Once the cubes of meat
and internal organs are browned over diced onions, locally-grown paprika powder
and hot green peppers, the mixture is cooked together with the knuckles, hoofs,
tail and the head, which is cracked in half for the brain inside to be
seasoned. Designed for adventurous eaters who don’t mind their food staring
them in the face, this will not only be your happy meal, but the meal that will
stick with you from your visit to Hungary.
Kürtöskalács
A marked example of street
food, kürtöskalács (chimney or funnel cake) is a spiral-shapped pastry that is
served in special kiosks and at every festival in Hungary. Following the
age-old Transylvanian recipe, a sweet cake dough is rolled onto a wooden pin
that is is baked in a special oven until golden. The crispy, hollow loaf is
then rolled into various toppings, from crushed nuts, cinnamon, and ground
walnuts to vanilla, coconut flakes, poppy seeds or cocoa powder.
Onions from Makó
Onions may be a lowly root crop, but their versatility and
ever-present quality in the Hungarian kitchen makes them an unsung star. The
southern edges of the Great Hungarian Plains, especially the city of Makó, have
been fertile ground for onions for several centuries. Over time, their
cultivation has led to a special type of onion typically consisting of a firm,
bone-white flesh and a strong ,spicy taste that can be stored through the
winter period. The unique qualities of Makói vöröshagyma or Makói onion have
thus ensured their place in the Hungaricum club since 2009, forming the
irreplaceable base of iconic local dishes such as gulyás, lecsó or onion soup.
Pálinka
Almost always served as a shot, pálinka is not only a national tipple but a liquid source of pride for
Hungarians. “Pálinkás Jóreggelt!” or pálinka sunrise is how rural
workers start the day, but this potent fruit brandy is served
with virtually every meal in rural households and is a part of traditional
family events, be it weddings, pig killings or funerals. Often referred to as
firewater, the production of this type
of brandy is now strictly regulated and only drinks that are 100 percent fruit
distillates with a minimum alcohol content of 37.5 percent can be named pálinka.
Traditionally the most commonly used fruits to make this national tipple where plums, apples, pears, apricots, and cherries, but increasingly more unusual and lesser-known
varieties are fruits and flavor combinations have appeared on the market. There
are hundreds of types of pálinka producers throughout Hungary, but the best
distilleries are still Gyulai, Zwack, Brill Pálinkaház, Bestillo, Tarpai,
Bestillo, Agárdi, Márton és Lányai, Bakonyi, and Nobilis Pálinkafőzde. The
Hungaricum list contains appricot pálinka made in Kecskemét and Göncz, plum
pálinka made in Szatmár and Békés, apple pálinka made in Szabolcs, sour cheery pálinka made in Újfehértó, pear pálinka made in Göcsej and marc brandy made in Pannonhalma.
Pozsonyi Kifli
Hungarians are spoilt fof choice when it comes to desserts and pastries, but from the arsenal of decadent
treats (think Dobos cake, Rigó Jancsi, grillázs, indiáner, Rákóczi túrós, somlói galuska, mignon), the one that stands out on the Hungaricum list is the pozsonyi kifli. Harking back to the days of
Turkish occupation in Hungary, this crescent-shaped pastry is filled with poppy
seed or walnuts and baked to golden-brown perfection. It takes its name from
the Hungarian name for the Slovakian capital of Bratislava, but its creation
saw the input of German and Austrian confections before it became a Christmas holiday
staple in Hungary.