Young guns are redefining the country’s centuries-old winemaking tradition

by Anna J. Kutor

Moldova may be one of the smaller and less visited countries
in Europe, but when it comes to wine, it has a ‘go-big or go-home’ attitude. This
sun-kissed nation, wedged between Ukraine and Romania, is where viniculture is
thought to have originated some 5000 years ago. Since then, winemaking has
become an expression of national identity, and the country’s abundant sunshine,
rainfall and forest soil make it ideal for cultivating grapes. Thought
Moldovan vineyards are centuries-old - stalwarts include Purcari, Cricova and
Milestii Mici - it’s thanks to a new crop of dynamic young winemakers that
Moldova is now making a name for itself in the hard-to-please world of wine.

One such modern vineyard setting the standard is Chateau
Vartely, set into the side of a limestone slope in historic Orhei, some 60 km
north of Chisinau. It has a grand restaurant and tasting rooms that stock grape
varieties from the local vineyard - Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, sweet
Muscat and more. “Wine is a badge of pride and a symbol of Moldovan
hospitality,” says Arcadie Fosnea, the master winemaker. “Today,
through strict quality control standards and the crafting of more delicate,
European-style wines, we are now showing customer how to appreciate premium
quality Moldovan wines.”

Quality over quantity is the approach of these young,
ambitious wine producers and, wince the recent legalisation regarding
small-volume wine production, a number have banded together to create the
Moldovan Small Wine Producers Association to promote their own interests,
educate consumers and attract investment. Members are comprised of Equinox,
Mezalimpe, Pelican Negru, Vinaria Nobila and Et Cetera. For Alexandru
Luchianov, of the brotherly duo behind Et Cetera in the southern Stefan Voda
region, customers are increasingly looking for “a connection and a sense
of place in the glass”. Et Cetera has achieved this by recrafting native
varietals (a wine made from a single named grape variety) such as Feteasca
Neagra (which translates as ‘Black Maiden’) and Rara Neagra (‘Loose Black
Grape’). He also established a small restaurant on the estate serving local
food and a wine shop where visitors can soak up the atmosphere while sampling a
glass.

Fellow member Equinox planted its first vineyard in 2002,
releasing its first wine in 2006. “Our aim is to produce quality wines
with personality,” says producer Constantin Stratan. Around 8000 bottles
go out each year, mostly to Chisinau’s bars and restaurants.

This autumn, Moldovan National Wine Day, runs on the weekend
of the 5 and 6 October, marking the end of the harvest season. If you’re flying
in too late to enjoy it, head straight to Carpe Diem, a newly opened wine bar
in the center of Chisinau. A compact wooden counter, wall racks packed with
over 160 different domestic and international wines and a 12-seater table all
neatly squeeze inside the intimate space, which hosts regular wine tastings,
courses and wine-paired dinners. The well-informed owners take the guesswork -
but not the fun - out of grape explorations by offering unusual wines from the
less-trodden wine regions of Moldova.