Steeped in tradition and a 2000-year-old history, Hungary enjoys
the world’s largest concentration of thermal baths in the world. Soaking up the
ambience at one of Budapest’s thermal baths is a wonderful way of experiencing a historical Hungarian
institution and a slice of local life.

by Anna J. Kutor

Passing through the flamboyantly decorated Art Nouveau
arches of the Gellért Hotel reveals the entrance to a tranquil thermal temple
worthy of royalty. This opulent palace overlooking the Danube
River houses Budapest’s most renowned public bathhouse,
the Gellért Baths. Built in 1918, this upscale public bathhouse adheres to the
traditions of style and service that was established in the era of Emperor Franz
Joseph. Oozing class and grandeur, the bath boasts a maze of eight thermal
pools, each a different temperature, in addition to a large swimming pool, small
steams rooms, massage halls, and other rooms treating specific ailments –
including dentistry. The décor is equally elaborate featuring large marble
columns surrounding the pools, walls covered in magnificent green-and-blue
majolica tiles and mosaics that depict sea creatures, as well as statues of
kissing cherubs and stone lion heads gushing warm water. If these flashy floors
and walls could talk, they would whisper tales of healing, memorable meetings
between noblemen and colorful chit-chat between regular patrons. And there are
surely lots to tell, as bathing in Hungary has a history reaching back
into the days of the ancient Romans.

Historic Healing

Bubbling from deep under the Buda Hills on the right bank of the Danube
River, the therapeutic thermal waters of Budapest where first discovered by Romans in the fourth century B.C. They built intricate waterways and lavish bathhouses around the region’s richest natural
resource, reaping the soothing and healing powers of the springs. However, it
wasn’t until the 150-year Turkish occupation starting in the 16th
century that the ritualistic bath culture truly started to flourish. As
Muslims, Turks where obliged to cleanse themselves five times a day in
preparation for prayer, thus establishing the habit of daily bathing on
Hungarian territory. Among the most beautiful architectural remnants of the
Turkish period are the Király, Rácz and Rudas bathhouses which are function to
this day.

Today, there are 123 thermal springs in Budapest, which produce 40 million liters of the wickedly warm waters (in temperatures reaching
up to 76 °C) that supplies over two dozen operational
spas dotted around the capital. The natural springs are rich in a number of
minerals including calcium, fluoride, sulphates and magnesium, all of which are
medically prove to have healing effects on chronic locomotors disorders, nerve
problems, and respiratory and circulatory illnesses. Fanatic followers with a
strong aquatic obsession claim that these waters can cure almost any ill. But
beyond the waters therapeutic and rejuvenating qualities, what locals and
visitors seek most are pure relaxation and a sense of well-being.

Old and New Traditions

Hopping from on tranquilizing thermal tub to another
yields inimitable insight into the historical and cultural machinery of the
city. A twenty minute stroll away from Gellért Baths at the foot of the Gellért
Hill, another local liquid landmark that provides both sensual and sensory
delights is the regal Rudas Baths. Three well-known springs named Juventus,
Hungaria and Attila have supplied the bathing complex since the Knights of St.
John founded a hospice at this spot. Construction of the current structure
began in 1556 during the Turkish period, on the orders of Pasha Sokoli
Mustapha. An octagonal pool with a ten meter diameter dome sustained by eight
green-tinted pillars acts as the centerpiece of the bath, which is circled by a
cluster of five smaller pools. Natural light transcends in from a multitude of
star-shaped holes scattered on the cupola above the main pool, exuding an
otherworldly Ottoman-period charm. The rest of medicinal complex -including a swimming
pool, a sauna and the Water Hall where mineral-rich water from the nearby
springs is sold -, where added only in 1896.

Formerly exclusive to men, the Rudas bath broke with its 70-year-old tradition in 2005 and
opened up its doors to women on special days of the week. The place now offers
female-only dipping every Tuesday, with co-ed opportunities on weekends. Unlike
on single-sex bathing days, bathing suits are compulsory at times when men and
women are permitted to bathe together. If you forget to pack a swimsuit or a
shower cap - which is mandatory in the swimming pool section -, you can buy or
rent one in the kiosk at the entrance (expect only retro, one-piece swimsuits
with tacky patterns and flower-covered rubber caps).

Liquid Source of Pride

Budapest’s most postcard-perfect bathing location is the Széchenyi Baths, situated smack
dab in the middle of the leafy City Park in Pest. A
sprawling oval bath complex built in a palatial neo-baroque style in 1913,
Széchenyi features over a dozen indoor and outdoor pools as well as numerous
steam-baths, saunas, wave- and whirlpools. Surrounded by the yellow-colored
walls, massive pillars and statues of water gods, men and women float
blissfully in the open-air steamy waters. Immersed in chest-high hot water,
clusters of local clients stand around plastic chessboards pondering their next
Big Move. Although still welcoming guests, the bath is currently undergoing a
facelift that is scheduled to finish in 2008.

One of the oldest and most exotic bathhouses in town, the 16th-century Király Thermal
Bath is another splendid spot for ladies wishing to enjoy the experience of
bathing in the nude – all day on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Men have the
same body-bearing privileges on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Originally
built by the Turks, the bath owes its final form – including a large
Classical-style wing built besides the Ottoman building - and its name to the
German König family (König=King=Király) who took the ownership and restoration
works in the early 19th century. Further major reconstruction took
place on the bath complex at it suffered massive damages during WW II, with a
five-year total renovation project, as well as a short upgrade in the pools
hydraulic system that ended in the beginning of September this year.

Inside, the main thermal pool is topped by a sky-lit dome - the so-called moon crescent -, with
several small pools off to the side. Water rushes in from spouts at
temperatures between 21 and 49 °C, creating an atmospheric mist that lets health-seekers stretch out and relax. Soaking is a national pastime in Hungary and an accepted medium for social interaction, so the baths are packed with people of all ages and social statuses. Sitting naked, or in tiny towels barely
covering their precious parts, it is not uncommon to find local artists,
celebrities and intellectuals taking a tension-relieving dip; talking
animatedly about difficult family dilemmas, new job opportunities or the
spiraling state of the economy.

10 tips for novice bathers in Budapest

1. Consume plenty of fluid before you start to soak. Most baths have drinking fountains with
waters laden with minerals where you can stock up liquids. 

2. Taking a shower before you enter the bath is obligatory.

2. Despite what some may say, there is no right or wrong sequence of moving from one facility
to the next. Do what feels most comfortable.

3. Remember to bring a swimsuit and cap. Slippers, towels, and shampoo also come in handy.

4. Tipping dressing room attendants is not required, but they welcome a tip in the 4-8 PLN
range. Masseurs and other extra-service provider expect a tip in the 5-10 PLN
range.

5. Don’t bathe on an empty stomach, as the steam and warm water can take a heavy toll on the
undernourished body.

6. Take heed of the recommended maximum soaking periods posted on the walls next to each pool.

7. Set aside at least two hours to fully make use of the relaxing benefits of all the
amenities, including saunas, steam rooms and massages.

8. If you feel exhausted from all the heat, take a cat nap in the rest room to regain
strength.

9. If you need help, ask for advice, or keep your eyes open and follow what the local regulars
do.

10. Not all bathhouses accept credit cards, so make sure to have cash ready for entrance
fees.